Welcome to The Philippines

We ended up staying 3 weeks in Kudat, melting most days and nights in the sweltering heat. When there was wind it was bearable but as soon as it dropped then nothing would help, not even the fans. The air con was useless without the shore power and was left on another boat which is remaining at the marina indefinitely, poor Giovanni  “Mescalito” has had to return to Germany and face reality (ie: get a job)

Kudat Marina office cost 90% of the budget. Why!!!!

A few other yachts arrived and some left, the social scene was vibrant which was good as we dined out most nights at either the golf club or at one of the many Chinese restaurants in town.

A few drinks on the dock before dinner

A couple of days before leaving we were invited to the local stadium to watch the Malaysian Prime Minister promote himself for the up-coming election which must take place within the next 6 months. We stood out in the crowd like the proverbials as all the followers were clad in supportive orange shirts. It was interesting to see the flag waving but typically boring as all political rallies are.

Malaysia's Prime Minister telling everyone how good he is

The wind had dropped out so we waited a couple more days and spent one lolling around the resort pool, soaking up the sun with a refreshing swim and a filling feed of local fish and chips.

This what happens when only 10% of the budget is spent on the marina.

We finally got going at about 0700 and left the marina which would be our last till we return to Kudat sometime next year, let’s hope the power ‘s on by then. The wind was from the SE and about 8kt so perfect for the UPS, we unfurled it and away we went, motor off and sailing again.

Off we go with the new UPS flying

The wind held in all morning and gave us a good opportunity to realise the potential of the new sail. It did everything we asked for.

Coming in for a rear assult

By late morning the wind had crept too far forward and was freshening so we furled the UPS and unfurled the genoa and continued all the way to the next anchorage at Banggi Island which was still in Malaysian waters 25nm from Kudat.

Building up speed

The anchorage was lovely and with the breeze coming offshore was refreshingly cool. The water was reasonably clear and much cleaner than the west coast of Borneo. We watched the sunset as the local fisherman started laying their nets and settled down for a few browns.

And off we go

Next morning at dawn we saw the wind coming north of east which was a shame as our course was north across the Balabac Strait which separates the South China Sea from The Sulu Sea and is strewn with coral patches further east. First of all we had to traverse a narrow passage and negotiate around some shoals adjacent another island then it was a 30nm trip across the strait to Balabac Island and The Philippines, at last!!

Afternoon at Bangi Island

We managed to avoid the worst of the rain squalls which came our way, sailed for probably half the distance and motor-sailed the other when the wind headed us off which was generally associated with the squalls. We were heading for the town of Balabac but as we got closer we decided to head for a more sheltered bay a bit further south which offered better protection in these winds and the stronger NE winds which were forecast for the next couple of days.



One of the lovely islands we passed along the way

We dropped anchor early afternoon and were soon set upon by a couple of local kids in a canoe demanding practically everything we possessed, we finally agreed that if they return with a couple of drinking coconuts we would give them some biscuits and noodles. They obliged us with the coconuts which we weren’t really interested in but at least it’s considered trading, so they can have their respect and aren’t seen as just begging. Later a few older gentlemen came out and we made the same request and they too obliged us and we them, so we considered our mooring fees for the night were now covered.



Malaysian fishing boat taking refuge



The next day brought the stronger NE winds and squally showers so we hunkered down and stayed put. At midday we decided to take a hike with John and Wilma “Miss Conduct” in search of the old Spanish lighthouse we could see on the island to the west of the anchorage. We went in search of the track which was shown on the latest chart (1934) but our first effort was rewarded with a tromp through mangroves along a very makeshift path to nowhere.

Spanish Lighthouse (aka Holy Grail) with modern one behind

The second attempt looked much more promising as we followed a worn path through scrub which eventually led us to a fork. Thinking we needed to find the high ground where the lighthouse stood we took the path leading up, it took us up alright but the top of the neighbouring hill, when we reached a clearing we could see the lighthouse but to get to it would have required another couple of hours walk there and back, it was too late in the day so we conceded and headed back to the boat.

That night and the next day the wind howled and the rain pelted down, we had to do anchor watch as we were concerned that with the wind shifts during the violent squalls that we could swing and drag into shallows. Thankfully we were OK and by evening the conditions had settled a lot.
The next morning was marginally better and at 0700 we cleared the bay and had to tack out to clear the eastern side of Balabac Island and again having to negotiate through squalls, heavy rain and headwinds we reached a calm anchorage behind a lovely island NE of Balabac. It offered good protection from the NE but the forecast predicted the wind to head around to the NW and then west the next day.

Line sqall no 1 for the day, we left after this one passed over

We left at 0645 as we could see the reef and the sky was clear, we had worked it out that we should have tidal assistance across North Balabac Strait till about 1300 as we weaved our way through the narrow passages between the maze of coral reefs to the south of Palawan Island. Our plan was to reach the southern tip of Palawan at the change of tide and ride the incoming tide north along the SE coast. We hit it on the head perfect. The wind had freshened as we scooted past our first intended anchorage and onto the protected river at Rio Tuba further up the coast.

A local fishing boat, very much different to the ones in Malaysia and Thailand

Rio Tuba is a small town that resembles a scene out of a wildwest movie. The main street is a rocky dirt road which is infested with motorised tricycles which look like props in a Mad Max movie.

Main street of Rio Tuba Port Town

The town is a mining town where Nickel ore is barged out and loaded onto waiting ships offshore. The raw material then goes to a refinery somewhere for processing, probably China, to make low grade stainless steel. The local community is very poor and it appears gets little from the mining company. In the main part of town which has a bitumen road it’s where the living quarters of the mine staff are concealed within a large stone walled enclosure with barbed wire parapets and armed guard security.

A jeepnee nearly loaded and ready to go

We took a Mad Max tricycle into this part of town and purchased a new phone sim card so we could be in contact again, but no such luck with the internet, we had to resort to a local café, which was fine once we cleaned all the dust from the monitor. The dust from the passing mine trucks is so prevalent that they employ people to sweep the street all day and every day. The pay is well below a pittance and quite obscene when compared to OZ.

A tricycle our main mode of transport here in the Philippines

It was in the harbour part of town where we first tasted the Filipino beer, San Miguel Pilsner, 30pesos or A$0.75 a bottle, not bad. Our first local meal was a private affair provided by a local lady who owed the shop adjacent to the walkway we used to get from the dinghy landing in the stilt village to the dirt main road. It was a chicken dish and was lovely and because she thought it not enough she also provided 3 large blue swimmer crabs, and they were large even by OZ standards, so were a real treat.

Loading nickel ore from barges at Rio Tuba

The next day we headed off and with headwinds wind motor sailed most of the way to Sir Brooke’s Point another 30nm northeast. The anchorage is located behind a partial stone wall which protects another nickel ore loading facility. We didn’t bother going ashore as it was just an overnight anchorage.

Boat building in the stilt village opposite town



At 0300 we were rolled out of bed and had 3 hrs of torture as the wind had shifted to the SW and freshened producing a swell which invaded the anchorage, we left just after dawn and throughout the day we experienced rolling swells drenching squalls, lightening, thunder, wind from all directions of the compass and strong winds over 30kt from the east. We sailed at every wind angle and every conceivable sail configuration and reefing level. The only thing we didn’t do was hoist our UPS or spinnaker.

Nearby hills a stark contrast to the flat indescript scenery of Borneo

We tucked in behind Rasa Island which was 45nm northeast of Brooke’s Point just before a huge squall crossed over. We had to rig up a rope brace from the port stern to the anchor chain to offset the boat so that it would point into the rolling swell and not the wind which was at 90 degrees. This worked quite well till the wind shifted during the night to 180 degrees off the swell.
By morning the sky had cleared to the east and the low pressure system that had formed there had cleared west wards. The wind was about 10-12kt from the ENE so we tried sailing for an hour or so but gave up when it dropped below 7kt, it was too forward for the UPS so we motor sailed and continued to all the way to Puerto Princesa the capital of Palawan State. A large well protected bay with a typhoon anchorage further upstream should the need arise.

 

Abanico Yacht Club waiting for our Sunday roast

This will be our base for a few weeks as we get established, clear in with Immigration and Customs and suss out what is available in this new country. Across from the anchorage is a small yacht club which provides secure dinghy tie-up, wi-fi internet, access to town, showers, cheapish beer, meals and a great Sunday roast. Run by an expat pom John and his wife Cissy. It costs 500peso per yacht for the services and extra for the beer and food. Town is a Mad Max tricycle ride once you hail one down which may take a 10min walk to find but it’s cheap and there are plenty to choose from.

Inside a trike looking forward

The Abanico Yacht Club is also a watering hole for a few expat Aussies now living in Puerto Princesa one of whom we met was a longtime resident of Magnetic Island, his name is Billy Fields (not the singer) but goes by the nickname of “Bad Habits” just like the song. In a past life he worked as the Nth Qld sales rep for XXXX beer, and established a reputation in the 80’s and 90’s for being a bit of a rogue. He knows many of the people from Townsville and the far north good and bad that we have known and associated with in the past. It’s such a small world really.

Says it all

Another expat Aussie who up till 4 weeks ago was living here in the Philippines.  Joe Adams (Yacht Designer) was murdered with a machete while trying to defend himself from an attack. A cowardly act upon an old man of 81. It’s unfortunate we didn’t get to meet Joe who was a revolutionary designer well ahead of his peers at the time. He designed yachts to sail fast in all directions and we can attest to that as Joe designed “Dreamweaver”.  We just hope the culprits are found quickly and dealt with appropriately.

 

The Philippines is full of corrupt officials (fixers)

 

So far our impressions of the Philippines is that the sailing is good, the landscape and anchorages are a pleasant change, the people are very friendly despite living in virtual poverty, the climate is better than Malaysia, cooler with more wind. The beer is OK, the rum is very good and cheap ($3.75/750ml bottle. The dining out food is not as nice, a lot of fast food outlets with small napkins and even smaller menus. Grocery choices are very limited and generally more expensive than Malaysia. Fruit and vege’s are limited in variety but the quality is good, the meat is very good with a wide variety, the eggs are excellent and stark white in colour. The prices vary greatly depending on whether the item is imported or local and lastly the money A$1 = 41pesos is filthy dirty. A germ for every centino in value, 1peso = 100 centino. The probable cause for most of the yachties in the anchorage to have either a stomach bug (me for one) or a severe dose of the flue.

The Philippines was and still is a pirates haven

 

That’s about all for this blog, bye for now.

 

Beers and Cheers with a San Miguel

at the yacht club