West Coast USA

Blog No 9

Heading west from Port Angeles we stopped at Cape Flattery the most NW point in the USA. It’s a bit of a hike out to the point but well worth it as it is the turning point for ships heading into both Seattle and Vancouver. It’s calm at present but the ragged cliff face indicates that wild weather is common especially in winter.



A very unusual tree along the trail to Cape Flattery

The rugged coast looking south from Cape Flattery

Local sea lions making the most of limited space well off the coast

The west coast runs pretty much north/south through Washington, Oregon, California and down to Mexico with few decent bays and entrances to provide any form of protection or relief from prevailing winter westerly winds. Summer, as we have now, is generally light winds and mild temperatures. Strangely it is warmer in Vancouver than it is in San Francisco at this time of year.

Close enough to touch. Well, perhaps not!!

 

These guys get pretty aggressive while making the most of the local marina

Not the easiest way to relieve an itch

Move over or else!!

Not sure how this guy managed to sleep with all the mayhem on the dock

Well, who's a pretty boy

 

The ocean currents swirl around the North Pacific Ocean and run from North to South along the west coast and in summer because the water is cold and the land air warm a very thick fog forms along the coast all the way south to San Francisco. It only penetrates a few mile inland but hangs in day and night.



The west coast fog bank is relentless



Perhaps not the best place to be, maybe the fog got the better of them. The radar looks pretty small.

The coast road is spectacular and thankfully provides many excellent view point turnouts along the way. The road itself is very narrow, hilly and winds around the cliff face edge with switchback after switchback requiring serious concentration all the time.

The coast is chewed away with masses of kelp

A section of coastline steep too and inhospitable to seafarers

 



A typical northern beach

A grey whale close inshore, they migrate along the coast all year round

With so many curves turned so far along the coast and the previous 8,000 miles travelled, we not surprisingly, blew out a hydraulic steering hose which required immediate attention. We managed to cross the border into Oregon which is a tax free state and found a repair shop at Astoria. Within 48hrs we were back on the road again with a new hose and new pinion seal in the diff, it also showed signs of a small leak. The pinion seal was covered by our purchase warranty as part of the drive train, but unfortunately the steering hose was not.



This is one of several beautiful bridges crossing the waterways along the coast. Looks a little like our very own.



A natural arch created by wave action which will eventually break this rock into 2.

The lengths some people go to for the best photos

 

Our night stops along the coast were varied between spectacular isolated ocean front cliff overhangs to Indian Casino carparks packed with heaps of other RV travellers enjoying the 24/7 entertainment. A couple of beachfront camps offered a chance to stretch the legs with most beaches void of life other than a few horse riders and crazy ATVs (all terrain vehicles). The beaches are nice but not like Qld or NSW, more like what Tasmanian beaches are like with freezing cold water and masses of giant kelp beds offshore which is often washed on shore.



A magnificent example of vintage cars on display at Lucky 7 Casino Smith River, Oregon

 


The following day at the Casino was a car stereo display. Insane!!




The most ridiculous thing we have ever seen. A db drag race. Please explain I hear you say!!. Well cars connect to a monitor then turn up their car stereos and record how loud they are, but it is only the base that comes out as a vibration. The best we saw was 159db. One guy said he suffered nose bleeds regularly while sitting in his car. When we suggested he should turn it down he looked at us like we had just dropped in from Jupiter. The base was so loud it made the RV vibrate 100m away

 

After crossing into California we came to the Giant Redwood forests, WOW!! These trees are huge and despite only 4% still remaining from early 19th century numbers, we visited several groves along the way. The trees are surviving close to the coast and get their huge water requirements from winter rains and summer fogs. This part of California is surviving the severe drought, which presently has a grip on the rest of the state.

This massive tree is well over a thousand years old and even with the centre partially hollowed out it is still very healthy 

 

The Coastal Redwoods grow up to 400ft high

We arrived in San Francisco early, hoping to miss the crowds on the Golden Gate, but were informed by the visitor’s centre that crowds rarely thin no matter what time it is. It is truly spectacular, like our coat hanger, and despite the cold and fog which is more common than not, we walked both ways then drove south across paying a toll we were happy to pay despite northbound not having too.

The Golden Gate Bridge on a very gloomy morning

Crossing the bridge all rugged up

The famous Fisherman's Wharf, crabs and chowder on every corner, a mariner's delight

We parked up and strolled around the famous waterfront for most of the day taking in the nostalgia of the place. It is a lovely city and harbour with the infamous Alcatraz Island surprisingly close to shore. You have to book at least 1 month in advance to get to Alcatraz so we missed the opportunity this time round. We just can’t plan that far in advance. By the end of the day we were back on the road heading south and away from the fog.

The west coast is famous for abalone and this is a beauty much bigger than we get on the NSW coast



This location where the abalone was taken looks idea for spearfishing, crays and abs but the water temp is only 10C they can have it.




A young Californian sea lion loves her place on the coast. Too cute to be a him.

 The temperature started rising and the countryside became drier as we progressed, the beaches resembled those in OZ and were more inviting, the water was still cold though, and we continued to see the sea lions at most viewpoints.

 

These 2 young buck Elephant Seals are testing each others strengths

 

 

This buck Elk is rounding up his girls as a photographer near by gets too close. The herd was 50 strong

The animal life along the coast has been good and varied much like we were expecting in Canada at this time of year. The US, we think is currently much more proactive in preserving wildlife habitats along the coast and within their National and State Parks. This might surprise people, knowing of its redneck history. The majority of US citizens we’ve met are thinking positive and proactive about the environment whereas the Canadian’s seem to be despondent, just blaming government policies for the losses much like in OZ. Typically right wing government policies promote rape and pillage of all living things. Canada has just moderated towards the left, so hopefully a change is in the wings for them.
 

An American Seagull with yellow beak and pink legs, about 3 times the size of ours and no less stroppy

 

An Oyster Catcher on a mission fossicking for food



A Turkey Vulture waiting for a free feed



An American Curlew a bit different to ours, not sure if they scream at night.

  

As we got closer to LA we discovered that free camps were not to be found anywhere, even the carparks were restricted, with security scared the homeless would take over the towns and the hard working American shoppers would be left without any spaces to park.

It's really sad to see the numbers of people here that need a hand out

 

At least here no one goes by without stopping

 

At Oceana Beach we decided to utilise our 2 nights for free bonus from Cruise America (a bit like a get out of jail free card). The campground was listed as beach front but in reality was at the rear of about 1 mile of sand dunes back from the ocean. It did however, come with all the mod cons like 120V power, dunny & water hook-ups and a shower block within 50m. WOW was life ever meant to be this easy, surely not!!

Our beach front accommodation, just don't be in a hurry for a swim

 

Hell!! what country are we in, sand dunes and Zebra

 

Our original plan was to continue south along Hwy 1 to hobnob with the rich and famous in Malibu and drink margaritas in Tijuana, Mexico but with only just over a week left we decided to head east towards Bakersfield where we intended to store the RV while back in OZ. This midsize city is located in the San Joaquin Valley northeast of LA and part of the California food bowl. The area is as dry as a dead dingo’s donger, but thanks to some enterprising irrigation systems utilizing the snow melt water of the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the east, it flourishes.

America's version of a dead dingo, a Coyote which stands about knee high and scavenges for food

Lucky we made the decision, as the park we had sort of booked, informed us they were full. The rest of the day was spent searching until we found another park with just 2 vacancies left. A better location out of town with full hook-up facilities and pool. We booked the storage and paid from that day for 6 months @ $37/month it was a bargain.

 

Dry as described, no other words could say it better

 

Growing grapes en mass for wine in what we would consider desert but here a fertile valley

With a week to spare we headed east to the Sierra Nevada Mountains again. Visiting the Sequoia NP, home of the biggest tree in the world, Kings Canyon and Yosemite Valley. We missed these national parks earlier in July due to wildfires in the area and the Independence Day long weekend.

 

The General Sherman Giant Sequoia is the largest tree by mass in the world. It is too big to photograph in its entirety. Its bark is 2 feet thick

 

This tree was 2,210 years old and was cut down in 1950 because it threatened to fall on holiday cabins. It had survived 80 serious fires which left scars however this scar made by man was the biggest by far. Why didn't they move the cabins I hear you ask. Good question.



The forests have suffered severely from the drought and may never fully recover with about 50% of all pines now dead. The fires were devastating with huge expanses destroyed.



The wildfires have taken their toll this year with all the pine trees dying. This one came within 2 miles of the Giant Sequoia grove. They actually put coverers over the giants to protect them.

  

The giant sequoia trees are cousins to the coastal redwoods and require vast amounts of water which they usually get from the snow where they live at high elevation and thankfully they are fire resistant. In fact these trees require fire to germinate similar to our eucalypts.



The western end of Kings Canyon shows the road which was built by convicts in the early 20 century





Entering Kings Canyon showing the different rock types and stratas



Between Kings Canyon and Yosemite we had to go through Fresno, a city similar to Bakersfield. It was here while stopped at a set of traffic lights just about ready to move on we were rear-ended by a woman in a small car. She was obviously looking down at her phone and not concentrating so when she saw cars in her periphery vision move she gunned it thinking we were moving as well. Wrong!! In US both right and left lanes can move independently from the centre lane. She cleaned up her car and bent up our heavy duty steel rear bumper.

The magnificent Yosemite Valley was once a glacier about 10,000 years ago with the ice up to the base of Half Dome Rock on the right hand side. The glacier carved the U shaped valley and smoothed the sides.

 

Thankfully she was insured and accepted full responsibility. We have subsequently claimed on her insurance and after returning to Bakersfield a couple of days earlier we have had an assessor inspect our damage and arranged for repairs when we return in 2017. Our insurer and hers have so far been excellent, only problem is that the US is still in the last century when it comes to institutional payments. Checks only!! No direct debits or credits. We will be out of the country for 6 -7 months so this presents a problem they struggle to deal with. You would think we were leaving the US for another planet. Same same with the warranty reimbursement but we think this one might be solved with our trusty sales associate volunteering to physically deposit the check into our bank account.

EL Capitan a 3,000ft vertical sheer face a favourite for the very experienced climbers

 

The northern wall of Yosemite Valley

 

We are now in the RV park, actually paying for the privilege while prepping for our storage and intended departure in a couple of days. We’ve arranged a hire car to travel the 120 mile to LA but might take the longer scenic trip and make a day of it rather than straight down Hwy 5. Bakersfield is a good storage location because it’s away from the coast, it hardly ever rains, and it doesn’t freeze in winter. We lucked on a local park dweller who offered us a full RV cover for $50 usually about $400 so that will help keep the dust off and protect the roof, AC and hatches.

A couple of brave ladies doing the CanCan with a 3,000 feet sheer drop beneath. Perhaps its how the name originated.

Overhanging rock viewed from below in the valley. You can just see it sticking out right of centre

 We have travelled just over 10,000 miles this year in 4 months and seen some incredible sights, most of our expenses have been on fuel and food and considering how expensive it is to holiday in the US and Canada we have come well within our budget. We will be back again next year with a plan for many more adventures so stay tuned in 2017. Hope you enjoyed 2016, we certainly did.

This old photo shows the size of these giants. Taken after the initial quarter cut to determine the direction of fall. These 2,000 year old trees were sacrificed to make railway sleepers. 96% of these forests gone represents 1,920,000 square miles and pines are not an adequate replacement hence the droughts.

 

See Ya'll in 2017

 

Beers and Cheers with a Pacific Pilsner another of Canada's finest brews.

 

J&J