JJDreamweaver: Yellowstone

The southern entry

The northern exit showing why the park got its name

We parked up at the Southern Entry to Yellowstone NP for a couple of days as we waited for the “Gates to Swing” at exactly 0800 on May 12^th, not a second before. This was our preferred entry point rather than backtracking west 150 mile to the Western Entry which was already open. Our National Parks Annual Pass was still valid until end of June this year so despite not being the first vehicle in line we were in fact first through the gate and to drive along the snow bound road. The snow was up to 10 feet thick in parts where it had been pushed off the road with the snow plough. The scenery was stunning with frozen lakes and snow covered waterfalls.

Deep snow still present along the entry road

The rivers are just thawing and look amazing

The melting snow is producing incredible waterfalls

Yellowstone NP is the world’s first national park, passing the US congress back in 1872. It is located on top of the same hot spot which created the Snake River basin which runs for 200 mile southwest through Idaho. The park is also part of the Continental Divide which separates east from west. Yellowstone Lake is the crater remains of the latest volcanic eruption which occurred about 640,000 years ago and was 1,000 times larger than the Mount St Helens eruption which we saw the results of last year. This eruption was the last of many which has created a very unique place on the planet.

A very colourful geyser

Adjacent Yellowstone Lake still partly frozen despite its average 42m depth

Fishing Cone where fresh caught fish in the surrounding Yellowstone Lake were immediately cooked by hanging above the vent. In the 1800's that is

Yellowstone NP is like the centre of the US, as it is the location for the head waters of the Snake River which runs into the Columbia River and then into the Pacific Ocean, also the Yellowstone River which runs from the lake into the Missouri River which then runs into the Mississippi River and then into the Atlantic Ocean. All massive river systems, fed mainly by snow melt and providing water and power to drive the US economy, without these snow covered high peaks the interior of the US would be a dust bowl like OZ.

The Abyss Pool is an amazing example of these features

Many different colours are created by the rock and chemicals which leach into the ponds

Steam rising from the ground indicates that the ground is super heated below

With the whole park sitting on the hot spot and despite the ground being covered with large patches of ice we saw many hot springs, fumaroles (hot mud) and geysers. The most famous geyser is named Old Faithful and erupts on queue every 90 minutes or so, it sprays water up about 100 feet into the air for about 5 minutes.

Old Faithful blows its top for us on queue

Hot spots like this one are all over the place spewing up mud

Its like the earth is on fire

The volcanic heat below boils the toxic sulphur laden water under ground and because of the chemical crystallisation choking the constricted outlet the pressure build up in the underground void creates an explosive eruption. It is even dangerous to walk in open ground as the surface is quite thin and some people have fallen into a void never to be seen again, boiled alive, and the yanks think OZ is a dangerous place to visit.

The Dragons Breath is a tunnel which has been created by continual back and forth water motion caused by the volcanic activity

This pond which is placid at present can suddenly blast up spewing mud for many metres around

A fallen pine frond which has fallen victim and will one day become a fossil

Yellowstone NP is also famous for the variety of native animals which seek refuge in this area away from the relentless hunters, when the snow melts the meadows are expansive and the vegetation lush and plentiful. We saw many bison close up and elk as well as bears which was an added bonus as these are very hard to spot.

Big and bold these guys do as they please

Still with some winter fur and a very obliging pose

End of spring is calving time and the bulls are very protective despite their docile appearance

A young calf getting the feel for walking

The bears are usually found along the road where some vigilant searcher has seen one and then the road becomes clogged with people creating a “bear jam”, camera’s with 1 and even 2 foot long lenses can be seen sitting on tripods along the roadway recording every movement made by these animals, not surprising they hibernate for 8 months each year. The numbers of both black and grizzly bears are very much lower than we thought and are grossly outnumbered by the tourists.

A black bear foraging for food

A rare sight to be seen so close as this

The fangs tell the story, after a long sleep they are now hungry and cranky, best to keep a safe distance

It is late spring here at present and still very cold, many parts of the park are closed along with most of the campgrounds despite all paperwork stating they are only closed for winter. Winter can last from 3 months to 9 months apparently, according to the authorities, depending on snow and ice conditions. Summer is the peak season from the start of June going through to September and we were advised to be well away before it started. At present the park is catering to busloads of Asian tourists coming here and then onto the Grand Canyon. All racing around like headless chooks spoiling their scenic photos by putting their heads in the way.

Some game campers, the nights at present are getting down to 0 degrees

After completing the southern portion of the park we found a nice campground just north of our exit point for $10/night, it allowed us to come and go as we pleased and gave us access to the less crowded northern section where the chances of seeing more animals was better. We saw our first bears at 3 separate sightings and close to the road along with varying numbers of other onlookers. The bears appeared to be living “in the wild”, they were comfortable with the crowds and went freely about their business which was feeding on plentiful fresh grass shoots. Currently they are hungry after a long hibernation and woofing down everything they can get, even a stray human if possible.

A black bear which we thought may have been a grizzly, however this one doesn't have the shoulder hump, they can range in colour from blonde, brown or black

In the northern part of the park is a spectacular geological phenomena called Mammoth Hot Springs where hot water with dissolved CO2 makes a solution of weak carbonic acid. This water bubbles up through the limestone bedrock rather than the rhyolite which is typical further south. The calcium carbonate crystals are deposited and form the Travertine rock terraces seen in the photos.

Colourful thermophiles create a changing palette of colours

A cascading flow shapes the terraced hillside

Ditto

Liberty Cap 11m high was created by a hot spring that was active for a long time, its internal pressure was sufficient to raise the water to a great height

We hiked a few trails in the park always diligent not to become the stray human. Prior to arriving we purchased a can of bear spray, which is basically capsicum spray and is supposed to repel an aggressive bear clawing and mauling you to death. Firstly you have to get the spray out of the holster in time and make sure the bear is down wind so you don’t get the spray in your own eyes. This is all very difficult while trying to take photos as bears can run at 35 mph. At this point in time we have been very grateful we haven’t had a close encounter while hiking and not sure if we ever want too.

The Yellowstone River running through the northern section of the park

A layer of columnar basalt volcanic rock weathered away showing the upper layer of pumice and ash which covered it

The endearing term of “Teddy Bear” comes from the forward thinking US president Theodore (Teddy) Roosevelt while he was travelling in Canada in the 1920’s. His companions managed to corner a grizzly bear so the president could shoot and kill it, however when he saw it he refused to shoot, and from that heroic action came the creation of the miniature cute replicas we know today. Wonder if the current president would pursue the same course of action.

Not a "Teddy" but cute anyway

A Killdeer, which is part of the plover family found a home among the hot springs

We will leave you here for now as we head north into Montana, a state which deserves a whole blog for itself, so much to do and see, just hope it starts warming soon.