Buenos Dias/Noches Senor and Senorita

 

We crossed the border into New Mexico just near where Geronimo and his cohorts were captured. This was the final moment in the long standing war against the Native American Indians. Just like the Sioux and Comanche, the Apache tribes were defeated by the US Army and forced to live on reservations in locations which white man considered worthless. They had already killed 99% of the buffalo herds in their attempt to starve the Indians out of their tribal lands, a wonton criminal act which went unpunished.



Chiricahua Peak and the adjacent valleys where the Apache Indians survived before surrendering to the US Army




There are over 50 varieties of Yucca Tree this one is still with seed pods

The border also signifies the separation between the east and west as it is here that the Continental Divide runs North-South from the Canadian Border to Mexico following the Rocky Mountains. In the far South where we are, the mountains are quite low only 8,000 feet at the peaks and below 4,000 feet in the lowlands. The Sonoran Desert has changed into the Chihuahua Desert and despite having many similar plants and animals it is vastly different in many other respects.

Another hawk waiting patiently

Well maybe not too patiently

East of the Continental Divide is much colder and wetter, in winter the winds flow down from Canada sweeping along the frozen Rocky Mountains bringing sub zero temperatures which we were not expecting. We headed north where we climbed to the top of the divide at Jacks Peak but were driven back south at Silver City when the temps dropped and Jen got a bad dose of the flu and I got another dose of gout.


Gambel's Quail are like free range chooks in the desert

We headed as far south as we could snugging the Mexican Border as we progressed further east. We crossed the border again at Palomas, Mexico for the day. This crossing was very quiet without the hustle and bustle of spruikers, while the town was a bit sleazy with locals just hanging about watching. We ventured only to the recommended Pink Building for lunch, some souvenirs and then a pharmacy nearby to buy some drugs. Medicine in Mexico is much cheaper than the States like about ¼ the price.

A bit of Mexican cheer while dining at the Pink Place

In Columbia the US town before the border we found a State Park which for $14 per night we had a level pad with electricity which was good for a flu and gout recovery. The temps were low and the wind picked up with rain but we were snug as a bug with the furnace blasting away to keep us warm.

The Pink Place is hard to miss

 



We left Columbia before our propane level dropped as low as the morning temp, and crossed the Texas Border at El Paso. It is here that the Rio Grande River coming south from Colorado through New Mexico turns south east and forms the border with Mexico continuing for about 1,000 miles before emptying into the Gulf Of Mexico. Sadly, the Rio was not so Grande, as at this time of year it’s mostly dry suffering the same fate as the Colorado where most of the water is drained off for farming irrigation.

Everything's big in Texas

El Paso is not a quiet little country border town but a lively bustling city nearly the size of Phoenix and as the name suggests has only one passage through. The I-10 highway runs through this passage with a maze of interconnecting offshoots and flyovers all accommodating massive trucks hurtling along at 80 mph. It’s quite terrifying!!!!

Many parts of New Mexico and Western Texas are quite poor with many towns being handed over to the ghosts

We camped up at Walmart in Horizon City just east of El Paso and restocked as we expected a long haul before the next major city, after all nothing is as big as TEXAS. Western Texas is still part of the Chihuahua Desert although it has much more grassland, the old buffalo stamping grounds in winter. No buffalo to be seen nor many cattle, despite ranches galore, we didn’t get any answers why the lack of cattle. We did however find many dairy cattle living like battery hens in suburban areas obviously to keep the transport costs down.

This is one hell of a Yucca

Travelling the plains of Texas we headed for the Guadalupe Mountain National Park which contains the highest peak in Texas. The peak 8,749 feet is very low compared to other mountains in the US and it is for this reason many people are attracted to it at this time of the year in their attempt to be on top of Texas. We declined as the forecast temp for the peak was below zero with strong winds and expected 12 hour return hike.

El Capitan in the Guadalupe Mountains NP was a sentinal for the stage coach to turn NW while travelling from St Louis to San Francisco 2,800 miles in 24 days

Again it was too cold for us so we headed south and then further south again till we reached the Rio Grande and Big Bend National Park. This national park is extremely remote and is situated where the river makes a 90 degree turn. The Rio Grande cuts through 1,500 feet high ancient limestone canyons and the mountains within the park are like islands in the desert. High in the mountains you can find all the plants and animals that would be found in northern states like juniper and pinion pines along with mountain lions and black bears (albeit illegal Mexican Black Bears). The biodiversity has been maintained despite the isolation.

Early morning along the Rio Grande

Desert Islands like this appear to be lifeless but in fact harbour a great variety of life forms

We found camps at both ends of the park and spent many days observing the wildlife and taking in the amazing sights. Many of the roads required 4wd so we couldn’t access the more remote areas unfortunately, but what we saw was very impressive. Being so isolated the park was suited for the enthusiasts rather than the tourists which was an added bonus and a rare find.

Spectacular formations carved by both wind and rain

 

Protrusions like this volcanic plug were pushed up through the surface

At the rangers station we enquired about what we could expect further east and were informed that the temps would not improve, in fact probably get colder, despite going further south. It’s only Florida, which is still about 3,000 miles further east where it’s warmer. The eastern states area is very much more crowded with people and traffic and the scenery mostly boring and critters hard to find.



Santa Elena Canyon from a distance.



The walls are 1,500 feet high with Mexico to the left and USA to the right

Santa Elena Canyon was carved out by the Rio Grande as the limestone was slowly forced upwards along a fault line

The Rio Grande further east in the park after the big bend, its a wild river in the summer wet season

A different hawk

Hey Mexican get outer my country

It's up high here where the animals have become stranded

Hiking the canyon

These 1,500 feet walls were once part of a coral reef submerged below the ocean

Southern Mexico is much warmer but we don’t have sufficient info yet to attempt anything other than day trips. We’ve been informed it can become a nightmare if one’s not prepared properly. We would need to apply for visas, get separate vehicle insurance, pay cash RV bond fees, book campgrounds, different propane bottles etc, etc and talking Spanish would help.


A young coyote, they are very timid at that age but still very cunning

This Roadrunner is very much alive and I was very grateful for his pose, they only seem to race when crossing the road in front of you

A grey fox slinking around the campground a minute later it jumped high in the air and disappeared down a hole



A Gila Woodpecker searching for a feed



A much better pose



A very rare sighting apparently as these Texas Pocket Gophers spend 75% of their life underground and appear very friendly as he goes about his business




WOW maybe not





The Davis Mountain Observatory in Texas covered with a fine blanket of snow



Yes it does snow in Texas


 

We decided to head back to Tucson, Arizona where it was much warmer and we could reassess our travel plans. A place where the internet could be accessed and relied on at most places, and the furnace would not be needed during the day. Plenty of campsites to choose from and very little traffic. We will also try to get a good price for the RV, hoping that this time of the year will attract a southern buyer. Maybe hang around an Indian Casino or two and a few more day trips to Mexico





Arvee 'For Sale' it will be sad to see it go just a shame we can't bring it home

Adios Amigo’s

 

Beers and Cheers from the Mexican side with a revitalising frozen Margarita or 2.

 

 Hasta La Vista

 

J&J