Welcome to The Philippines

We ended up staying 3 weeks in Kudat, melting most days and nights in the sweltering heat. When there was wind it was bearable but as soon as it dropped then nothing would help, not even the fans. The air con was useless without the shore power and was left on another boat which is remaining at the marina indefinitely, poor Giovanni  “Mescalito” has had to return to Germany and face reality (ie: get a job)

Kudat Marina office cost 90% of the budget. Why!!!!

A few other yachts arrived and some left, the social scene was vibrant which was good as we dined out most nights at either the golf club or at one of the many Chinese restaurants in town.

A few drinks on the dock before dinner

A couple of days before leaving we were invited to the local stadium to watch the Malaysian Prime Minister promote himself for the up-coming election which must take place within the next 6 months. We stood out in the crowd like the proverbials as all the followers were clad in supportive orange shirts. It was interesting to see the flag waving but typically boring as all political rallies are.

Malaysia's Prime Minister telling everyone how good he is

The wind had dropped out so we waited a couple more days and spent one lolling around the resort pool, soaking up the sun with a refreshing swim and a filling feed of local fish and chips.

This what happens when only 10% of the budget is spent on the marina.

We finally got going at about 0700 and left the marina which would be our last till we return to Kudat sometime next year, let’s hope the power ‘s on by then. The wind was from the SE and about 8kt so perfect for the UPS, we unfurled it and away we went, motor off and sailing again.

Off we go with the new UPS flying

The wind held in all morning and gave us a good opportunity to realise the potential of the new sail. It did everything we asked for.

Coming in for a rear assult

By late morning the wind had crept too far forward and was freshening so we furled the UPS and unfurled the genoa and continued all the way to the next anchorage at Banggi Island which was still in Malaysian waters 25nm from Kudat.

Building up speed

The anchorage was lovely and with the breeze coming offshore was refreshingly cool. The water was reasonably clear and much cleaner than the west coast of Borneo. We watched the sunset as the local fisherman started laying their nets and settled down for a few browns.

And off we go

Next morning at dawn we saw the wind coming north of east which was a shame as our course was north across the Balabac Strait which separates the South China Sea from The Sulu Sea and is strewn with coral patches further east. First of all we had to traverse a narrow passage and negotiate around some shoals adjacent another island then it was a 30nm trip across the strait to Balabac Island and The Philippines, at last!!

Afternoon at Bangi Island

We managed to avoid the worst of the rain squalls which came our way, sailed for probably half the distance and motor-sailed the other when the wind headed us off which was generally associated with the squalls. We were heading for the town of Balabac but as we got closer we decided to head for a more sheltered bay a bit further south which offered better protection in these winds and the stronger NE winds which were forecast for the next couple of days.



One of the lovely islands we passed along the way

We dropped anchor early afternoon and were soon set upon by a couple of local kids in a canoe demanding practically everything we possessed, we finally agreed that if they return with a couple of drinking coconuts we would give them some biscuits and noodles. They obliged us with the coconuts which we weren’t really interested in but at least it’s considered trading, so they can have their respect and aren’t seen as just begging. Later a few older gentlemen came out and we made the same request and they too obliged us and we them, so we considered our mooring fees for the night were now covered.



Malaysian fishing boat taking refuge



The next day brought the stronger NE winds and squally showers so we hunkered down and stayed put. At midday we decided to take a hike with John and Wilma “Miss Conduct” in search of the old Spanish lighthouse we could see on the island to the west of the anchorage. We went in search of the track which was shown on the latest chart (1934) but our first effort was rewarded with a tromp through mangroves along a very makeshift path to nowhere.

Spanish Lighthouse (aka Holy Grail) with modern one behind

The second attempt looked much more promising as we followed a worn path through scrub which eventually led us to a fork. Thinking we needed to find the high ground where the lighthouse stood we took the path leading up, it took us up alright but the top of the neighbouring hill, when we reached a clearing we could see the lighthouse but to get to it would have required another couple of hours walk there and back, it was too late in the day so we conceded and headed back to the boat.

That night and the next day the wind howled and the rain pelted down, we had to do anchor watch as we were concerned that with the wind shifts during the violent squalls that we could swing and drag into shallows. Thankfully we were OK and by evening the conditions had settled a lot.
The next morning was marginally better and at 0700 we cleared the bay and had to tack out to clear the eastern side of Balabac Island and again having to negotiate through squalls, heavy rain and headwinds we reached a calm anchorage behind a lovely island NE of Balabac. It offered good protection from the NE but the forecast predicted the wind to head around to the NW and then west the next day.

Line sqall no 1 for the day, we left after this one passed over

We left at 0645 as we could see the reef and the sky was clear, we had worked it out that we should have tidal assistance across North Balabac Strait till about 1300 as we weaved our way through the narrow passages between the maze of coral reefs to the south of Palawan Island. Our plan was to reach the southern tip of Palawan at the change of tide and ride the incoming tide north along the SE coast. We hit it on the head perfect. The wind had freshened as we scooted past our first intended anchorage and onto the protected river at Rio Tuba further up the coast.

A local fishing boat, very much different to the ones in Malaysia and Thailand

Rio Tuba is a small town that resembles a scene out of a wildwest movie. The main street is a rocky dirt road which is infested with motorised tricycles which look like props in a Mad Max movie.

Main street of Rio Tuba Port Town

The town is a mining town where Nickel ore is barged out and loaded onto waiting ships offshore. The raw material then goes to a refinery somewhere for processing, probably China, to make low grade stainless steel. The local community is very poor and it appears gets little from the mining company. In the main part of town which has a bitumen road it’s where the living quarters of the mine staff are concealed within a large stone walled enclosure with barbed wire parapets and armed guard security.

A jeepnee nearly loaded and ready to go

We took a Mad Max tricycle into this part of town and purchased a new phone sim card so we could be in contact again, but no such luck with the internet, we had to resort to a local café, which was fine once we cleaned all the dust from the monitor. The dust from the passing mine trucks is so prevalent that they employ people to sweep the street all day and every day. The pay is well below a pittance and quite obscene when compared to OZ.

A tricycle our main mode of transport here in the Philippines

It was in the harbour part of town where we first tasted the Filipino beer, San Miguel Pilsner, 30pesos or A$0.75 a bottle, not bad. Our first local meal was a private affair provided by a local lady who owed the shop adjacent to the walkway we used to get from the dinghy landing in the stilt village to the dirt main road. It was a chicken dish and was lovely and because she thought it not enough she also provided 3 large blue swimmer crabs, and they were large even by OZ standards, so were a real treat.

Loading nickel ore from barges at Rio Tuba

The next day we headed off and with headwinds wind motor sailed most of the way to Sir Brooke’s Point another 30nm northeast. The anchorage is located behind a partial stone wall which protects another nickel ore loading facility. We didn’t bother going ashore as it was just an overnight anchorage.

Boat building in the stilt village opposite town



At 0300 we were rolled out of bed and had 3 hrs of torture as the wind had shifted to the SW and freshened producing a swell which invaded the anchorage, we left just after dawn and throughout the day we experienced rolling swells drenching squalls, lightening, thunder, wind from all directions of the compass and strong winds over 30kt from the east. We sailed at every wind angle and every conceivable sail configuration and reefing level. The only thing we didn’t do was hoist our UPS or spinnaker.

Nearby hills a stark contrast to the flat indescript scenery of Borneo

We tucked in behind Rasa Island which was 45nm northeast of Brooke’s Point just before a huge squall crossed over. We had to rig up a rope brace from the port stern to the anchor chain to offset the boat so that it would point into the rolling swell and not the wind which was at 90 degrees. This worked quite well till the wind shifted during the night to 180 degrees off the swell.
By morning the sky had cleared to the east and the low pressure system that had formed there had cleared west wards. The wind was about 10-12kt from the ENE so we tried sailing for an hour or so but gave up when it dropped below 7kt, it was too forward for the UPS so we motor sailed and continued to all the way to Puerto Princesa the capital of Palawan State. A large well protected bay with a typhoon anchorage further upstream should the need arise.

 

Abanico Yacht Club waiting for our Sunday roast

This will be our base for a few weeks as we get established, clear in with Immigration and Customs and suss out what is available in this new country. Across from the anchorage is a small yacht club which provides secure dinghy tie-up, wi-fi internet, access to town, showers, cheapish beer, meals and a great Sunday roast. Run by an expat pom John and his wife Cissy. It costs 500peso per yacht for the services and extra for the beer and food. Town is a Mad Max tricycle ride once you hail one down which may take a 10min walk to find but it’s cheap and there are plenty to choose from.

Inside a trike looking forward

The Abanico Yacht Club is also a watering hole for a few expat Aussies now living in Puerto Princesa one of whom we met was a longtime resident of Magnetic Island, his name is Billy Fields (not the singer) but goes by the nickname of “Bad Habits” just like the song. In a past life he worked as the Nth Qld sales rep for XXXX beer, and established a reputation in the 80’s and 90’s for being a bit of a rogue. He knows many of the people from Townsville and the far north good and bad that we have known and associated with in the past. It’s such a small world really.

Says it all

Another expat Aussie who up till 4 weeks ago was living here in the Philippines.  Joe Adams (Yacht Designer) was murdered with a machete while trying to defend himself from an attack. A cowardly act upon an old man of 81. It’s unfortunate we didn’t get to meet Joe who was a revolutionary designer well ahead of his peers at the time. He designed yachts to sail fast in all directions and we can attest to that as Joe designed “Dreamweaver”.  We just hope the culprits are found quickly and dealt with appropriately.

 

The Philippines is full of corrupt officials (fixers)

 

So far our impressions of the Philippines is that the sailing is good, the landscape and anchorages are a pleasant change, the people are very friendly despite living in virtual poverty, the climate is better than Malaysia, cooler with more wind. The beer is OK, the rum is very good and cheap ($3.75/750ml bottle. The dining out food is not as nice, a lot of fast food outlets with small napkins and even smaller menus. Grocery choices are very limited and generally more expensive than Malaysia. Fruit and vege’s are limited in variety but the quality is good, the meat is very good with a wide variety, the eggs are excellent and stark white in colour. The prices vary greatly depending on whether the item is imported or local and lastly the money A$1 = 41pesos is filthy dirty. A germ for every centino in value, 1peso = 100 centino. The probable cause for most of the yachties in the anchorage to have either a stomach bug (me for one) or a severe dose of the flue.

The Philippines was and still is a pirates haven

 

That’s about all for this blog, bye for now.

 

Beers and Cheers with a San Miguel

at the yacht club

Labuan to Kudat

Our stay in Labuan was spent sourcing some spares, stocking up with cheap grog and food supplies which will be scarce from here on. In addition to stocking up we had to wait for our new furling UPS which surprisingly arrived on time and well within our expectations, Doyle Sailmakers in NZ did a great job in building the sail in such a short timeframe much quicker than any other could confirm, we just hope it performs as well?

A local boat perhaps not the winner it proclaims to be

We checked out the island on the rented motorbike but found little of interest except for the WW2 memorials such as Surrender Point where the Japanese signed a peace agreement and the War Memorial Garden Cemetery which contains about 3900 graves mainly Aussies and Poms killed or tortured during their imprisonment and the forced marches across the rugged terrain of Borneo, only a handful of soldiers survived the horrific ordeal.

Memorial Garden for all the WW2 diggers

To fill in our time, along with a few other boats all waiting for tax free parts to arrive we entertained ourselves with frequent sessions on each other’s boats sampling our duty free beverages. We even had a day playing tenpin bowls which was a real hoot, 9 of us played 3 games and rotated around on 3 lanes, throwing and bouncing the balls in a desperate bid to score the elusive strike. Overall bowls champion was ME!!!.

Jen shooting pretty straight

John off “Miss Conduct” was nearly knocked unconscious when he forgot to let go of his ball and slid down the aisle then falling backwards he hit his head on a concrete column. Blood splashed all over the place but he was back tossing the balls again after a quick repair job to his head by the 2 nurses Jen and Kate. The only other injuries came the next day for all of us when the muscles began to tighten up.

Something different and great fun

Every evening while anchored off the stilt village we were entertained (not )by  4 surrounding mosques, all out of sync wailing the ‘call to prayer’ sometimes for 10 minutes but many times much longer, along with the rubbish which is tossed out their windows is the only downside to this lovely place.

Stilt village in front of the anchorage

It was good to be on the move again and with a 7kt easterly wind we hoisted our new sail for the first time. It was difficult even in this light wind as it had been folded up and had to be hoisted prior to being furled so in the process it decided to take off down wind out of control. Once the halyard was tightened and the sheet hauled in we had it under control and were sailing at 4.5kt which is about 1.5 times better than with just a headsail. It’s about the same as the old MPS but with this sail we could pull a rope and the sail would rotate on the luff rope and furl itself. The sail can be left attached and when the conditions are right it can be unfurled and used then quickly furled again when conditions change.

Dead down wind without mainsail, not the best angle for sailing but the only way to get a full view photo of the new UPS, our sailing companion was always too far away, maybe next time. 

We sailed most of the way using our UPS to Tiga Island our next stop and anchored on the northern side to avoid any squalls which usually come from the SW. The island looked nice and we wanted to stay a few days and explore, the water is much cleaner from Labuan north and a swim has been on the agenda for a long while. Thunder and lightning woke us at 0245 with rain but thankfully not strong winds as it came from the east and then again from the NW. At dawn it was still the same so our intended stay was curtailed when we up anchored and headed off to Gaya Island west of Kota Kinabalu the capital city of Sabah. It was only 25nm but it rained virtually all the way, we managed to sail a good part of it and arrived in a very sheltered bay anchoring in 18.5m, very deep but better than being close to the reef which fringed the shoreline.

A hitchiker who stayed with us for a good while

Adjacent to the anchorage is a very expensive resort which is built over the water on stilts, from here we caught a ferry to the main jetty in KK. I had to pick up some dive tank compressor oil which had been prearranged with a local dive company and the other John needed some cir-clips for his throttle cable. The oil was collected and the clips located in a local hardware shop luckily avoiding a lengthy taxi ride which we were expecting, to the outlying industrial area. KK was nothing special, just another city with heaps of shops. The main attraction here is Mount Kinabalu which is the highest mountain in SE Asia and can be easily ascended by foot to the peak but it has a 3 month waiting list and takes 2 days to scale it. Needless to say it’s on our to-do list one day??

 

White hibiscus flower at Labuan Botanical Gardens - never seen one before

The next day we decided to take the dinghy into KK as the distance from the anchorage was less than we had expected and the water much calmer. We tied up in the Police enclosure and wandered around the streets checking out the prices. The local wet market was good and cheap but the supermarkets were much more expensive than anywhere else in Malaysia.  

One of the storms that seem to wash over us

We decided to move on north as the nightly storms were continuing so we headed off at 0800 in light conditions, this soon changed as squalls developed  to our south and washed over us lumping up the seas and drenching us with rain all the way to our next anchorage in a large bay well protected from the 3m swells. A huge typhoon east of the Philippines was sucking in a strong SW flow and the mountains close by were causing the cloud to build up and dump rain.

The Top of Borneo

The next morning we awoke to unexpected sunshine so we headed off on the 60nm trip to round the Top of Borneo. It was a lovely day but with only light wind from directly behind which made it impossible to sail even with the new sail as we were rolling from gunwale to gunwale most of the way. Once we rounded the top the swell eased and the wind was on the beam so we unfurled the UPS and took off for the last 5 miles and sailed to our overnight anchorage. It was my birthday so a couple of well-earned drinks were downed while listening to a bit of rock and roll. A very pleasant day.

In party mood wearing my birthday coolie hat

The anchorage at Kudat was 6nm away so we arrived mid-morning and found many boats anchored out the front while the new marina was empty except for 2 boats. We anchored while John “Miss Conduct” went in to investigate, he has been here many times before, he tied up and called us to come in which we did. The marina is very poorly built but adequate for us and better protected than out the front, it also negates the need to use the dinghy. No power or water but also no charge so what else can you expect for free.

The wonky marina in Kudat with anti-smuggling patrol boats behind

That afternoon we caught up with friends from 2 other boats “Po Oino Roa” and ”Mescalito” along with “Miss Conduct” and enjoyed some birthday Margaritas before a meal at the Kudat Golf Club which is attached to the Marina, and then a few nightcaps. Another lovely birthday.



Local Kudat fishing boats loading up slabs of ice

Two days later it was Wilma’s birthday and she provided us with some Filipino traditions, firstly a chicken killing birthday ritual which turned out to be 3 because she couldn’t buy just 1 at the local market. She did however get a free egg. The ritual requires the chickens blood be dripped onto her head, then wiped as a + to the forehead, inner elbows, knees and soles of feet. After that the chicken(s) were slaughtered and cooked as a soup and eaten for lunch. Very nice!! Jen offered to help clean up after the 6 of us but was informed that because she hadn’t slept in their boat the previous night she was not permitted to assist. Must remember that and be sure never to sleep anywhere in the Philippines other than on our own boat. Guest sleep-overs will be encouraged.

Wilma preparing her sacrificial chicken

We finally cleared in to Sabah and we have 2 weeks left on our Malaysian visa so we will prepare for our departure to the Philippines, fuel up as the price of diesel is more expensive up there, and wait for the right weather conditions. At present we have several typhoons in the region which are influencing our local weather so when it clears we will head off.

Beers and Cheers

J&J

Miri Repairs

 

Well, it’s taken a while but finally we are back on the move again. The 240 volt alternator was repaired by a local motor rewinding company and despite it not working when initially re-installed  and having to be returned for a quick zap (12volt energizer) it is now playing the game. Still not sure what caused the untimely burnout but that’s boats for you.

Back in Miri doing a beer run to the local Chinese restaurant

 We decided to buy a spare alternator so if this happens again we can swap over, while having the problem repaired, all sounded good until it arrived from England with a crack in the casing because it was inadequately packaged for international transport. We were given the option of a free replacement but with the added expense of “adequate” packaging (a crate) or $230 compensation, the original transport cost which should have included “adequate” packaging as requested. After a thorough inspection of the damage we decided to take the compo and hope it would work when needed, all the insides appear to be in good working condition.

Sent in a cardboard box with a bit of paper packing. This weighs 30kg!!!

After a poor attempt at fixing the anchor winch motor by a local company we decided to replace it with a new one from an Australian Yacht Winch Company in Sydney, where we had bought the 2 previous winches, at least this one lasted 10 years. The deal was we would return our old one for a $400 trade-in same as previously. What an ordeal this turned out to be, firstly it took 3 weeks to despatch a stock item, then, when disassembled to be greased and installed we discovered that the base plate was defective. The owner was advised immediately and we assumed a replacement would be sent, not to be as he stated to us that he was aware of the defect and believed it to be perfectly OK!! Obviously their export model or else they’re operating a sheltered workshop for the blind.

 

Who in their right mind would say this is NOT a defect.

 After a few choice words and a couple of ”idle” threats he eventually agreed to supply a replacement base plate on the proviso that we return the defective one, but refused to freight it here so thankfully Bernie came to the rescue and saved the day by picking it up and after a thorough inspection despatched it to us. It arrived 4 days later, Australia Post can you believe it, amazing!! Our old winch will be returning with the defective base plate by surface mail and will take up to 3 months to reach Sydney, fingers crossed?? We’ll deal with the outcome later.





The old spacer left shows the result of water penetrating down past the seals in the bore of the base plate, it's bad enough when the bore is not compromised. The manufacturer states that the winch should be dissasembled every 12 months. Yeh right!! Perhaps the spacer should be made of stainless steel or bronze not aluminium, prevention is always better than cure.

The anchor winch was finally installed and WOW what a difference, the motor has been wrapped with Denso tape which is a fibrous tape impregnated with grease, can handle high temperatures and keeps out moisture over a long period without deteriorating.  Let’s hope this will do the trick.

Reliving childhood

If we had the choice of places to break down, Miri was by far the best place, the marina is safe, relatively cheap and the other yachties great, we had fun in the sun while we toiled away. While waiting for the things to arrive and then re-arrive we discarded the motor bike and hired 2 push bikes for RM10 each/ week. Great exercise and a fun way to get around town, thankfully Miri is mostly flat as a tack. Jen learned to ride surprisingly only ever done it once before and after a couple of weeks rode into town to do the shopping.  She also started belly dancing classes with a growing group of woman which became a passion and a real hoot one Friday night when all the girls put on a performance with their teacher.

 

A bird's eye at Belly Dancing class

 Friday night is Miri Marina session night similar to what we used to have back in OZ, which sadly has been lacking over here till now. The women show off their culinary skills while the men drink and get waited on, just great!! Who could ask for more after a long week of haggling with locals, dealing with overseas suppliers, customs officials, freight companies, forwarding agents, and the list goes on it seems forever.  

A typical Friday night on the top deck at Miri Marina

The beer supplies dwindled down and the on again off again drama continued with another trip to the restaurant for accumulated buckets/slabs to supplement supplies. The authorities were cracking down big time even after Ramadan had finished. The outing was well worth the effort as the Chinese food was excellent and worth the trip on its own. Thankfully our rum stocks are plentiful and a good session on margaritas helps while away the time.

The girls live performance

Throughout the repairs we were researching options for a new asymmetrical spinnaker to replace the old one, the new one we wanted included a continuous line furler so rather than being smothered with a sliding sock the new sail would furl and be much more manageable and usable. We also wanted it to get a bit more windward ability in light winds so we decided on a Doyle UPS (utility power sail) with a Profurl furler. A flatter cut, heavier cloth asymmetrical sail and not as big. The Doyle loft in NZ was 25% cheaper than our old sailmaker in OZ who is now affiliated with Doyles and comparable with local Asian lofts but with a much better reputation, they also agreed to meet our time frame and deliver it to Labuan to save import hassles.

Everyone had to get into the action

We finally headed off in loose company with a couple of other yachts and rather than straight to Labuan we decided to day hop along the coast of Brunei, first stop was Kuala Belait a small river community 30nm north of Miri. The next stop was at Jefri’s wall 50nm further NE, one of the Sultan’s brother’s grandiose plans which was never completed, a  great walled enclosure with only a small island inside, but a comfortable overnight stop and good protection from the rain squalls which hit us that night. The next day we arrived at Labuan and anchored close to the decaying marina which is being repaired but looked no different than it did when we were here 5 weeks ago.

 

The belly dance class grew quickly from 3 to many, obviously a great incentive to get away from the men, but just as quickly reduced as many headed off

The following evening we were hit with a 30kt squall with lightning and thunder all around we took turns to anchor watch as we got closer and closer to the marina wall. The next morning we moved over to the other anchorage near the stilt village, the water’s not as clean but a lot more room to swing. The other 2 boats joined us later in the day. That night at 0200 another storm came through and both the other boats dragged anchor, both had ‘Bruce’anchors which don’t penetrate the rubbish which covers the seabed in this harbour, good for mud but not plastic bags. Our trusty CQR bit and held well.

New building under construction on the shores of Kuala Belait, if you look hard you can see the riggers at the top of a scaffold erecting some intricate spire

 We will spend  a another  week here exploring on our rented motor bike, stocking up with cheap beer and waiting for the new sail to arrive then head on up to a few islands and Kota Kinabulu. It’s a slow trip north, but we’re not in a great rush anyway.

Heading out from behind the protection of Jefri's Wall

 Bye for now,

 

Beers and Cheers, with a margarita or 2

J&J